Set your city-break sights on this underrated capital in Eastern Europe to stay in Old Town mansions, Art Nouveau addresses and upscale places to stay – all at an affordable price.
An urban forest of swirling spires and whipped-cream facades to rival Prague or Budapest, the underrated Latvian capital Riga is a riverside warren of historic architecture and little-heard stories to unfurl. Playing second fiddle to other eastern European capitals does mean that the living here is cheap, from grande dame hotels to pints in charming city taverns. With great nightlife, museums and minimal crowds, this is a laid-back city break where you don’t have to stress about booking things in advance – just go with the flow.
Grand Palace
Hotel
Far from becoming faded, this proud apricot Old Town mansion has been lavished with love and attention, as evidenced by its up-to-the-minute interiors: think rich peacock hues in the cocktail bar and angular, dark four-poster beds in rooms. There are still chandeliers and mounted taxidermy for a sense of occasion and the dining options are second to none. Pop into the glassy, palm-fringed Orangerie for a slap-up breakfast, or book a plush sofa nook in the Pils Bar and Restaurant for a gourmet dinner.
Hotel Justus
Boutique Hotel, Hotel
This character-packed boutique hotel, on a picturesque street in the old town, mashes up knobbly exposed-brick walls with ornate wrought-iron bed frames and modern mini-fridges. Formerly a tavern, then a printworks, its walls have stories to tell. A lovely light breakfast room and reception make the most of the pub-style interiors. Kick-off your sightseeing with ease: the city’s Doma cathedral is your neighbour.
Neiburgs
Boutique Hotel
Ever stayed at a mindfulness-themed hotel? This family-run guesthouse could be your first. Large suites with living areas are styled like luxury apartments; an all-day bar and restaurant champions Latvian cuisine; and a cutting-edge urban spa refreshes you with saunas, steams and amber-infused massages. All this forward-thinking comes wrapped up in a glorious Art Nouveau building – a real find for architecture and design lovers.
Hotel Bergs
Hotel
Flames flicker in ornate lounge fireplaces, light pours in through vast windows in minimalist suites and potted geraniums brighten up serene balconies at this slick city stay. Quality is baked in, from in-room espresso machines to heated bathroom floors. Book the still-affordable Penthouse for a split-level dream pad connected by a spiral staircase, with a glossy monochrome breakfast bar. Location wise, you’re a 10-minute walk to the Old Town, close to parks such as the Vermane Gardens.
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Hotel Valdemars Riga
Hotel
This Art Nouveau, ivory-coloured wedding cake of a hotel sits right in the historic centre. With 83 rooms, it’s not the most intimate bolthole in town, plus it’s polished in the looks department and runs like clockwork. Downstairs are homey communal spaces with bookshelves, lamps and cushions offset by moody charcoal walls, and dark-wood panelling. Rooms are simpler with bright white walls, wooden floors and scarlet accents.
AC Hotel by Marriott Riga
Chain Hotel
Marriott’s AC brand is smart, sharply designed and businesslike in nature, often with glossy monochrome design and great 24-hour facilities. Check into Riga’s outpost for a contemporary introduction to the city, retreating from cobbled alleys and rustic taverns to its cool, air-conditioned rooms with USB ports, flatscreen TVs and coffee machines. Work out in the top-spec gym, or lunch in the minimalist tapas lounge.
Old City Hotel
Hotel
Both sights and nightlife are a short walk from this prime location in the old town, a simple and traditional base for those who want to get out and dig into the city’s charms. Rooms are a mix of inoffensive cream and plum decor with hints of exposed brick and slanted period ceilings. Downstairs are a handy bar and restaurant for grabbing a bite, though more characterful dining spots await in the surrounding streets. The nicest spot is a bijou sun terrace for al fresco beers.
St Peter’s Boutique Hotel
Boutique Hotel, Hotel
In one of old Riga’s loveliest 15th-century buildings – all geranium-packed window boxes and swinging lanterns – this boutique number is beloved for its atmospheric lounge and roaring fire. Upstairs are tastefully renovated rooms, one with a private Jacuzzi, and there’s a communal cedar sauna you can book out for private sessions. The bar here is pretty sociable at weekends, so bring earplugs if you struggle to sleep through ambient noise.
Gallery Park Hotel & Spa
Hotel
This swish five-star stay is set in a Unesco-listed mansion in the Art Nouveau district, a few minutes’ walk from the Old Town. Palatial rooms furnished with chandeliers and chaise longues come in pistachio green and mustard yellow, all fireplace flourishes and tasselled curtains. Luxury lovers migrate here for its spa, complete with a thermal pool surrounded by inky-blue decor mimicking a starry night sky. Book ahead for intense anti-ageing rituals and jet-lag easing massages.
Dome Hotel
Boutique Hotel, Hotel
This ravishing design hotel has a more modern take on luxury than its rivals, from the chic modern bar terrace surrounded by Riga’s ornate rooftops to its locally-lauded fish restaurant, headed up by a Noma-trained chef. Book into the latter for dainty trout ceviche or Baltic herring with wasabi and coconut. Later bed down in glamorous pastel rooms with plenty of creature comforts. There’s also a stylish urban spa with great views of the city.
Sherlock Art Hotel
Boutique Hotel
A quirky, 17-room guesthouse inspired by the imagination of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, this city base mixes Victorian fireplaces and leather Chesterfields with polished wooden floors and modern shades of teal and charcoal. Close to the river in the Old Town, it attracts younger couples and friends looking for character and cosiness. There’s no breakfast or restaurant, but the kindly owners can arrange airport transfers and tours of the city.
Metropole Hotel by Semarah
Chain Hotel
Silky textures of lilac and gold flock wallpaper and gilt trim warm up the interiors of this smart, central hotel. With all rooms including breakfast, a minibar and plush seating areas, even its most affordable feel luxurious. An ample breakfast buffet fills you up with fresh fruit, cheeses, cold cuts and traditional Latvian pastries ahead of a day’s exploring, whilst you can head straight out on the town – the medieval St Peter’s church and the Central Market are both a few minutes’ walk away.