Ice & Fire: A Guide to Visiting Iceland's Most Awesome Glaciers and Lava Fields

Sitting pretty atop Katla, one of the biggest volcanoes on the island, is the mountain top glacier, Mýrdalsjökull. One of its glacier tongues, jutting from the main body is Sólheimajökull. To enjoy the dramatic ice formations, including crevasses, ridges and sinkholes in all their glory, a Sólheimajökull tour is a must. The effects of climate change can be clearly seen here, as the ice has retreated about a kilometre (0.6mi) over the last decade. That’s fast for a glacier!

Distance from Reykjavik: 98mi (158km), 1.5 hours
Entrance fee: From £100 for a tour
How to get there: By car, follow Route 1 southeast of Reykjavik.

The 3,500 year old Langjökull glacier is the easiest and quickest to reach from Reykjavik. It’s known as the Long Glacier because it is only 12mi (19km) wide, but 31mi (50km) long. Jump on board a 20 tonne NATO missile truck to access one of Iceland’s most impressive projects – the man-made Langjokull glacier cave. The white ice gradually transitions to bright blue icicle formations as you explore the 500-metre (1,640-ft) long ice tunnel. Listen for the creaking and cracking all around you in this ever-shifting marvel of nature. After enjoying the frosty beauty of the cave, whizz off on an exhilarating Langjökull glacier dog sledding or snowmobile tour to really make the most of your day.

Distance from Reykjavik: 82mi (132km), 1.5 hours
Entrance fee: £105 on a tour from Húsafell Center
How to get there: Drive north on Route 1, change to Route 50, then Route 518.

At its thickest point, the Water Glacier is almost a kilometre deep (0.6mi). At just over 8,000sqm (86,111sqft), it’s the largest glacier in Europe. You’ll see all the classic glacial geological features on a Vatnajökull glacier tour, including superb waterfalls, vast glacier rivers, steep canyons and beautiful glacier lagoons. This huge ice cap boasts around 30 glacier tongues spitting out from the main body as layers of crystal blue ice and volcanic ash.

Distance from Reykjavik: 203mi (327km), 4 hours
Entrance fee: From £100 for a tour
How to get there: By car, follow Route 1 southeast of Reykjavik.

One of the most stunning Icelandic lava fields was once the site of a cataclysmic event for Iceland and beyond. In 1783, an eruption known as Skaftáreldar (The Skaftá River Fires) caused natural disasters such as nationwide disease, crop failure and famine. A Sand Summer recorded that year in the UK is thought to have been caused by the fallout of ash from the eruption. It’s even been suggested that the haze blocking the sun may have had a part to play in the French Revolution! While marvelling at the numerous Lakagigar craters found in the region, it’s not hard to see why the Apollo 11 crew came here to practise for their moonwalk.

Distance from Reykjavik: 160mi (257km), 2 hours
Entrance fee: Free
How to get there: By car, head southeast on Route 1.

A rather grisly story from the Icelandic Eyrbyggja saga was set behind the road still visible across the bubbling basalt landscape of the Berserker lava field. Two men, known as Berserkers from Sweden (due to their rather aggressive nature) had come to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula to work. One of them fell in love with a farmer’s daughter. In return for his daughter’s hand, the farmer asked the men to build a road through the lava field, a seemingly impossible task. The farmer was alarmed to see the road quickly completed, but instead of holding true to his promise, he had the men killed. A haunting story to keep you company during your visit to this remote 4,000 year old site

Distance from Reykjavik: 100mi (161km), 2 hours
Entrance fee: Free
How to get there: By car, head north from Reykjavik on Route 1, which changes into Route 54, then Route 56.

This lava tube, or tunnel, was formed 5,200 years ago during the Leitahraun eruption. Walking in the path of the lava, along the 1.3-km (0.8-mi) long tunnel is a special experience that takes you right to the heart of Iceland’s powerful volcanic past. Rock falls have created holes, which allow three shafts of light to beam down near the tunnel entrance, giving an otherworldly glow to this fascinating place.

Distance from Reykjavik: 18mi (29km), 30 minutes
Entrance fee: From £40 for a guided tour
How to get there: Follow Route 1 east out of Reykjavik for 12 miles. Turn right onto Route 39 for another 6 miles. The car park is visible from the road.

Ever tried geothermally baked bread? Then step right up for a slice of Icelandic lava bread. This tightly-formed dark brown bread is made in a pan from an ancient recipe. Then, it’s buried and baked in the hot black sand for 24 hours. The walking tour from Laugarvatn Fontana takes you to the geothermal “oven” where the baker digs the bread up, ready to be tasted with Icelandic butter and smoked trout. Simply delicious!

Distance from Reykjavik: 48mi (77km), 1 hour
Entrance fee: The cost is £10, with an extra £3 for the trout, kids 0-12 go free
How to get there: Drive along Route 36 east of Reykjavik and change onto Route 365.